is the finished product)
Infraray: X-ray and Heat Sensory tutorial
The goal with this tutorial is to create a rather odd looking X-ray, that looks nice but does not necessarily need to be accurate; in addition, to create heat spots of a subject. This same tutorial is also great for making creepy skeleton, MRI and other medical scans.
The character I have picked for this is one of my own, her name is Demisewan (one of my Pokemon, Mewtwo/Mewthree species). Iím using her because she makes for an easy application of the two styles. You can use just about anything for this, just to note. Iíd recommend that you pick something organic (living) and animated (moving). It makes it far easier.
The program Iím using will be a trial version of Photoshop CS. You donít have to use layers, or even a computer. The style can be accomplished with any medium that can be applied gradually. I am also using a small Wacom tablet. If youíre stuck with a mouse you should rely more heavily on your Zoom tool. Make sure to clean it first.
This tutorial should take you no longer than 3 hours and I urge you to save as often as you need.
Step number 1:
Now you can do this several ways. You can scan in your sketch and put it into Photoshop or you can draw straight onto the computer. Keep your sketch clean, and up the contrast. In any case, make certain that the sketch is the background layer.
Step number 2:
Create a layer for the basic background. You can bypass this step if you either do not want a background, or donít want to use layers. A recommendation for those who bypass layers, go into Brush < Mode < Overlay. Change the color in the color swatch to the color you want for your X-ray and/or Heat Sensory. Color over your sketch then go into Brush < Mode < Normal and change the Opacity between 75%-95%. Change the color swatch to white and color over your sketch. The lines should be clear enough to see, but faint enough not to make a dramatic contrast to your sketch. If you are using layers, set it to Multiply so you can see your sketch and use it for reference.
Step number 3:
Apply a light base for the form of your subject. Use either a very pale color, or go into Brush < Opacity < 5%-15%. (The problem with Opacity is that that when you let go, and go over a previously colored spot, it doubles.) A better way to do this is select a dark form of the color of your choice, brush on lightly, click on it with the Eyedropper Tool then click Undo. Use that color on 100% Opacity. Change the Hardness (double click on the Brush tool to change the options for the brush) of your brush to a low percent and color in the form. The higher the hardness, the more pixelated and sharp the edges of the brushes are. If you are one who wants to mask your image, Iíd recommend using the Pencil tool because that will guarantee you the most solid line. Since I prefer masking, Iím using the Pencil tool. Keep in mind that there is an Eraser tool, so if you draw outside of the boundaries you can fix it.
Step number 4:
Right click on Layer 1, and select Duplicate Layer. You should now have an exact copy of your layer below. This will protect your base. You can turn off Layer 1. Make sure that Layer 1 Copy is on Multiply so you can see your sketch. My sketch lightened up quite a bit, I decided it was too dark for my liking. I went into Brush < Mode < Normal and changed the opacity to 25%, going over the sketch layer with a white.
Step number 5:
For now we will be doing X-ray. Go into Brush < Mode < A dark mode (basically when you go over your color it should darken) such as Darken/Multiply/Color Burn/etc. Change the hardness so it is below 50%. Turn on Airbrush and lower the Flow to around 10%. Use the color you used for your base, or tweak with the color if you desire. I did Brush < Mode < Multiply, with the base color. Now do the skeletal structure with a medium amount of color. You donít want it too dark. Try not to be too picky about bones and detail. This is quick work. Make sure to shade in the skull, and especially the eye sockets a darker color than the rest of the skeleton. To increase the darkness, let go of your brush and color over again. The skeleton should overlap other parts, to note.
Step number 6:
Create a new layer by duplicating Layer 1 Copy, then turn this layer off. Check to make sure it is in Multiply mode. Brush in things like internal organs and muscle. Keep the heart dark, and the organs of a lighter tone. The more thicker organs should be darker than thin organs. Some people tend to overuse the layer option, but if you want you can create a new layer and place it beneath the skeletal layer for the organs encased in the ribcage for instance, but you donít really need this.
Step number 7:
Duplicate Layer 1 Copy 2 then turn this layer off. Go into Brush and change the size of the brush to something relatively small. Change the Brush opacity to around 30%. You can also increase the darkness of the color youíre presently using. Draw in small detailing like veins and arteries. Try to keep it random and spidery. You can adjust the size of your brush to do larger veins and arteries if you desire.
Step number 8:
If you werenít using a Mask tool than you can use the Eraser tool to clean up the messy spots. By now you should be done the X-ray portion. You can merge your layers if you like, but Iíd recommend deleting the older ones altogether.
Step number 9:
Create a new layer. Now you will be doing the Heat Sensory aspect of the tutorial. As a note, itís hard to mix both of the effects, you can do either a portion or the whole thing as one option. My subjectís middle is done in the Heat Sensory fashion. Go into Brush < Mode < Normal. Keep Airbrush on, and you can turn the opacity up a bit if you desire. I usually do Heat Sensory as if itís fire, but you can do any color option or play with the layer for interesting effects. White is for hot spots, and dark red for the cooler spots. The colors of choice are white, a mid-blue, a mid-green, yellow, orange, red, and dark red. Start with the dark red and work your way to the warm spots, which will be colored in white. You can also simply just go for shades of blue, the options are endless. Ultimately Iím aiming to do a not too contrasty color.
Step number 10:
Clean your layer if you werenít using the Mask tool. You can play with the Layer options to add cool effects and colors.
Step number 11:
If you were using Layers, go into Layers and select Merge Visible. You can also use command codes like Ctrl + Alt + E to merge visible layers. If you donít want a layer to show, simply turn it off or delete it before you flatten your image. Warning though, that when the image is flattened and saved, it is no longer reversible.
Step number 12:
Go into Image and select Image Size. Make sure that all the boxes on the bottom are checked before you do this crucial step. Change the image size by either selecting the percent, or the size you desire. Iím comfortable with a width of 2.25Ē, as long as it is a vertical picture. You decide what size you prefer, but sizing is better than leaving it grossly large. Once the image is sized youíll notice two things. 1.) That your image is smoother. 2.) That you canít see as much detail. You can now save your picture as a .jpg for easy use on the internet.
If you have any comments or concerns, please drop me a line.
is the finished product)